Sandankyo Gorge

The 16-kilometer Sandankyo Gorge along the Shibaki River is unspoiled nature at its best. Located in northwestern Akiota, the gorge is a part of Nishi-Chugoku Sanchi Quasi-National Park and has been designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. There are only six gorges that have been honored with this designation in Japan, and Sandankyo Gorge is the only one of these in the western part of the country.

Nature conservation and preservation are taken seriously here, but visitors can experience the gorge’s beauty firsthand by walking on elevated or paved paths against the backdrop of the ravine’s rushing water, which are laid out so as not to disturb the ecosystem. Walking courses range from a beginner’s stroll to an advanced all-day trek, and hikers are encouraged to choose the appropriate course for their level. Boat rides to Kurobuchi Pool and Sarutobi Rock allow visitors to observe colossal cliffs and untouched forest from the water.

The forest around Sandankyo Gorge consists of a mixture of ancient conifer and evergreen trees. There are more than 1,800 different kinds of moss in Japan, and approximately one-sixth of these can be seen on the Sandankyo trail. Sandankyo Gorge’s tall cliffs and cascading waterfalls are reminiscent of the Chinese landscape paintings (shan shui) that inspired early explorers of the gorge, such as photographer Kuma Nanpo (1876–1943), to preserve its beauty.

Plentiful moisture in Sandankyo Gorge creates rich plant life in all three hiking seasons—spring, summer, and fall. The landscape is especially picturesque under the greenery of summer and during the fall foliage season. It is best experienced with all five senses: Listening to the rushing of the white water and wind circling through the ancient arbor, smelling the piney, organic scent of the forest, touching the fresh water and fallen leaves, tasting the sweet, unpolluted air, and, of course, seeing its beauties up close. Only a 75-minute bus ride from the city of Hiroshima, Sandankyo Gorge is a special place unto itself, where visitors can immerse themselves in nature.

History of Sandankyo Gorge

Sandankyo Gorge celebrated the 100th anniversary of its discovery in 2017. More than a century ago it was a largely unexplored ravine, mentioned only in the 1768 book Matsuno Ochibashu. The book described the upper reaches of the Ota River and parts of present-day Sandankyo Gorge, including Tatsunokuchi Torrent and Sarutobi Rock.

In 1917, photographer Kuma Nanpo (1876–1943) began exploring the gorge and was entranced by its scenery, which reminded him of Chinese ink paintings with landscape motifs (shan shui). This type of artwork had become popular among independent-minded members of the literati from the Edo period (1603–1868) onward. Based on Matsuno Ochibashu’s comparison of the gorge with two natural landmarks in China—the towering Mt. Emei in Sichuan Province (called Sanga in Japanese) and the lengthy Three Gorges in the middle of the Yangtze River (called Sankyo in Japanese)—Kuma came up with the name Sandankyo.

Charmed by the beauty of the gorge, Kuma began promoting it with the help of local residents, including primary school teacher Saito Rosui. One goal was to preserve the beauty of Sandankyo Gorge forever, so the group started a movement to designate the gorge a Place of Scenic Beauty under the Historical Spot, Scenic Beauty and Natural Monument Preservation Law. Sandankyo Gorge was designated a Place of Scenic Beauty in 1925. After the designation, Kuma’s next goal was to establish trails so people could walk through Sandankyo Gorge and enjoy the scenery. Maintaining the gorge’s natural state was a strong consideration when building the trails, which were planned to interfere as little as possible with the environment. These paths are the same ones used by hikers today.

In 1953, the gorge was designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty under the new Law for the Protection of Cultural Properties, and in 1969, the Nishi-Chugoku Sanchi area, including Sandankyo Gorge, was made a quasi-national park. These designations, made possible by the efforts of Kuma and the local residents, contributed to raising awareness of Sandankyo Gorge as a tourist destination while preserving its natural beauty. In recent years, Sandankyo has been featured in both the domestic and foreign media, and it is becoming well known as a place where visitors can enjoy the peace as well as power of nature. The gorge is now being preserved thanks to the efforts of local residents who have taken to heart the mission that Kuma Nanpo first established.

Sandankyo: Sandankyo Front Gate to Kurobuchi Pool

The Sandankyo Front Gate is the starting point of the south end of the Sandankyo trail. The three-kilometer trek from the Sandankyo Front Gate to Kurobuchi Pool is the most popular because hikers can experience the gorge’s natural beauty in about 50 minutes on paved paths and well-trod dirt roads, making it enjoyable for beginners or day-trippers. The entrance to the trail is located next to both the Sandankyo Hotel and stores providing provisions and information for the hike. After starting on the trail, hikers will cross a bright red bridge over Nagabuchi Pool. At around 100 meters, this is the longest pool in Sandankyo Gorge. A local kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding school is based here. The water is clear and cool in summer, making the pool popular for swimming.

About 5 minutes from Nagabuchi Pool is Shimaidaki Falls. The name means “sister waterfall” and refers to the three streams that run parallel down the rocks into a tranquil pool. Shimaidaki Falls is near Tatsunokuchi Torrent, where the tranquil water turns into tumultuous, rushing rapids.

In about 20 minutes from Shimaidaki Falls, hikers will come across a bright red opening amid the greenery. Called Akadaki Falls, this small waterfall of fresh spring water is framed by rocks covered with the brick-red algae that thrives here. The drinkable water is cold and clean, with a sweet flavor and soft texture. After passing Akadaki Falls, the trail leads onward to Meotobuchi Pool, an eroded pond filled with rocks. The path along Meotobuchi Pool is elevated, and there is no barrier between the path and the long drop to the water. Next to the pool is Ishidoi Shallows, a shallow area also filled with rocks.

Further on, the trail leads to Kurobuchi Pool, where hikers can walk to the water’s edge and take a break. The water in this large pool is tranquil and surrounded by giant cliffs covered with pristine forest. Kurobuchiso, a restaurant in the middle of the gorge, can be reached by a small ferryboat (the ride takes about 10 minutes).

Sandankyo: Kurobuchi Pool and Kurobuchi Pool Ferryboat

Kurobuchi Pool, about 3 kilometers from the south end of the trail at the Sandankyo Front Gate, is a tranquil spot where hikers can take a rest. The water in the large pool is devoid of strong currents and safe to approach. Kurobuchi Pool is surrounded by steep, forest-covered cliffs 100 meters high, and trekkers can expect to be awed by the views.

From mid-April to late November, visitors can board an old-fashioned ferryboat and see the towering cliffs up close. The small boat is rowed around the cerulean Kurobuchi Pool, giving visitors an intimate look at this secluded place. The boat also stops by the restaurant Kurobuchiso, which was first opened as an inn in 1926. Located in the middle of the gorge, it serves coffee and light meals prepared using local ingredients, and offers visitors an opportunity for replenishment in the midst of nature.

Sandankyo: Sarutobi Rock, Nidandaki Falls, and Sandandaki Falls

Sarutobi Rock is the entrance to Nidandaki Falls (lit., “two-tiered falls”), a “hidden” waterfall located about a 30-minute walk from Mizunashi Gate in the center of Sandankyo Gorge. Mizunashi Gate is about two and a half hours on foot from Sandankyo Front GateThe waterfall can also be reached by water. A small boat, operating on weekends and holidays from mid-April to late November, and every day during the fall foliage season, leaves from a wooden platform on the river. The boat takes visitors to Nidandaki Falls in about 5 minutes; the operator guides the boat through the narrow passageway of Sarutobi Rock using cables suspended from the cliffs.

The passageway is about 2 meters wide, which is narrow enough for passengers to reach out and touch the moss-covered, 20-meter-high cliffs. As the boat travels through the passage opening, passengers will notice how the cliffs’ shadows contrast with the scenery of leafy green trees in summer and fiery red leaves in autumn. Nidandaki Falls is like a hidden secret; it cannot be heard, seen, or felt until the boat emerges from the natural passageway and into the waterfall’s majestic pool. The water turns from aquamarine to a rushing white when the boat clears the passageway, and the roaring of Nidandaki Falls can then be heard.

The boat is anchored at a platform showered by water gushing over the falls. Visitors can walk onto the platform to see the waterfall up close and feel its splash. Originally a “two-tiered” cascade, the first rock wall was torn away by torrential rains in 1988. Standing on the platform in the middle of the pool offers the chance to feel totally immersed in nature.

Another destination on the trail from Mizunashi Gate is Sandandaki Falls. This three-tiered, 130-meter waterfall is one of the most remarkable sights along the entire trail. The cascade tumbles down the three levels of the waterfall into a calm turquoise pool below. Sandandaki Falls is surrounded by untouched forest that is picturesque through summer and autumn.

Sandankyo Hotel

The Sandankyo Hotel is a traditional, Showa-style inn in a quiet, secluded location directly overlooking Sandankyo Gorge. Views of the gorge fill the all-wooden building’s vintage windows; only the soothing sound of the flowing river breaks the quiet. Wide windows in the dining room and west-facing bedrooms open on vistas of morning fog snaking through fir trees in the gorge and around a bright red bridge.

The Sandankyo Hotel has been renovated with the latest amenities while preserving the homey, retro interior of decades past. Guests are welcomed in an intimate reception area, where they can find information on the history of Sandankyo Gorge and view photographs of the area taken by Kuma Nanpo (1876–1943). The hotel has three floors and includes an onsen (hot spring) bath with a view of the river, a dining room, and a library in addition to the upstairs guest rooms. Guests are served breakfast and dinner in the tatami-floored dining room. Meals feature locally grown food and hometown favorites such as ayu (sweetfish) and seasonal wild vegetables handpicked by the hotel’s owner in the nearby mountains. The food is not extravagant; rather, the dishes have been created to bring out the best in the local ingredients.

The history of the Sandankyo Hotel started with a ryokan inn called Kyonan-kan, founded by Takashita Tsuneichi in 1929. In 1932, the wealthy Hada family from Hiroshima acquired Kyonan-kan and converted it into a villa called Hada Besso, where Takashita served as head manager. During World War II, Hada Besso was used as an army sanatorium and was eventually taken over by Allied occupation forces after the war. The Hada family home was destroyed in the atomic bombing of Hiroshima in August 1945, and wood from Hada Besso was used for its reconstruction.

The current Sandankyo Hotel was built on the former site of Hada Besso in 1956. Takashita decided to name the establishment Sandankyo Hotel because the name sounded modern to him; in fact, the hotel was the first building in Hiroshima Prefecture to include the foreign word “hotel.”